But chef Ryan Stewart has created a fairly ambitious menu that veers from the standard burger-and-fries to creative takes on Southern classics and dishes with fancy flourishes, like brown butter foam, cider jus and Bernaise ice cream.

SMOKE AND GRANITE: The low granite wall that surrounds the few sidewalk seats in front makes an inviting entryway. Inside, one entire wall is covered with the same rough-hewn, sparkling-gray blocks, giving the dining area a solidly stylish feel. Ditto, the sprawling L-shaped bar and dark wood booths. But for those who don't find smoking and eating entirely compatible activities, the secluded back patio offers the only refuge for fresh air. It's well-equipped with wrought-iron chairs and tables topped with umbrellas. The owners have an expansion plan that includes a family-friendly non-smoking section. 

SOUTHERN-FRIED: Stewart's cooking can be straightforward or a little wacky. Eastern North Carolina-style chopped barbecue is simple and spot-on. Moist and tender with crunchy bits, it's bathed in a perfectly peppery vinegar sauce. Served on an egg bun, with very good slaw and jalepeño-cheddar hushpuppies, it would be even better as a plate than a sandwich. For something more adventurous, and equally tasty, try the house-made venison sausage with blueberry hoe cakes. Plating it with pickled corn relish and a squirt of maple syrup may seem a tad strange. But the crispy, sage-spiced patties connect with the slightly sweet cakes to conjure a country breakfast.

BAR-BISTRO: The rest of the menu ranges from substantial bar food favorites — cheese steak, shrimp and oyster po' boys, bratwurst — to more complicated bistro-style dishes that don't always come together. For instance, the "twiced-baked" three-cheese soufflé appears as a fallen yellow disc, with an oddly "blue" flavor. Duck breast is well-cooked and sliced, with nicely rendered skin and a flavorful, pinkish center, but the wild rice in the bowl below it is a soupy, bland porridge. Other offerings include pork tenderloin (with baked mac-n-cheese and mustard greens), chicken-fried filet mignon, New York strip au poivre and blackened wahoo.

BRUNCH AND BEER: One of the highlights of brunch (served noon-4 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays) is the venerable Monte Cristo, the hearty sandwich that bridges the gap between breakfast and lunch as a hybrid of French toast and croque-monsieur. The wine list is surprisingly thoughtful, and includes some good values. The bottled beer list is lengthy, with plenty of interesting imports and American craft beers. But the draft selection could be made a lot more exciting with the addition of just a couple of limited-edition and seasonal brews.

HOURS: Lunch: 11:30 a.m.-4 p.m. Tuesdays-Fridays. Dinner: 4-11 p.m. Mondays; 5-11 p.m. Tuesdays-Wednesdays; 5-midnight Thursdays; 5 p.m.-1 a.m. Fridays-Saturdays; 5 p.m.-11 p.m. Sundays. Brunch: noon-4 p.m. Saturdays and Sundays. Bar: open until 3 a.m. most days; until midnight Sundays.

CREDIT CARDS: MasterCard; Visa; American Express